Return to Eden

WHILE OTHER RESTAURANTS have ditched their white tablecloths and crumbers to feed the growing public appetite for casual dining, Eden Dining Room at the Rimrock Resort Hotel in Banff — the only CAA/AAA five-diamond restaurant west of Toronto — remains steadfastly luxe. Those seeking haute touches will not be disappointed with the exquisite dishes, many of which are near-theatrical in their extravagance. Take the arctic char tartare with blue spruce essence and bourbon-and-orange-blossom gelée. Served in a glass bowl on a bed of smoking spruce needles, this culinary masterpiece gives off a subtle, woodsy scent as the diner eats. The pedigree of executive chef Ralph Wolmann, who has helmed coveted Michelin-starred kitchens in Europe, shines through in even the humblest menu items. His nose-to-tail main features Black Aberdeen Angus beef tongue, tail and tenderloin served with rutabaga sauté, ice-wine mustard and licorice pickled onion. Equally impressive is the restaurant’s stylish dining room, with its 180-degree view of the Banff Valley. A visit to Eden always leaves you salivating for more.

Published in Westworld Alberta, 2012